Touring British Columbia and Yukon Territory
We did this drive in the shoulder season (September-October), and heard many (mostly wrong) pieces of advice from folks… all of the caution we were given almost made us rethink the trip, and we are glad we shrugged it off. If it were easy, everyone would do it, right? Maybe we got lucky. Maybe you make your own luck. But despite being told we would die in a snowbank, hopelessly stuck in our 2WD van with no fuel, having to resort to Donner Party levels of desperation… we are happy to report that was all drama. Two points did have kernals of truth. It is true that some (but certainly not all) establishments close for the season… Google rarely got it right, often saying things were open. Social media pages of specific establishments were better resources. The only closures of note were some NPS facilities, a few seasonal, high-caliber restaurants, and many tourist stops and souvenier stores. Second, the warnings we recieved about windshield damage were prescient… We did come out with a few nicks and chips. Fuel averaged $1.60-1.70 CAD (per liter!) on the drive, and fuel stations were plentiful which we were told by many armchair experts would not be the case. Good advice we recieved was to carry a spare can of fuel and to fill up when you dipped past half at the first chance. Sticking to this advice, you would not need spare fuel (though it’s never a bad idea in case someone else does). A not insignificant number of turned over RV’s on the edge of the road, particulary along the ALCAN, will keep you focused if the frost heaves don’t. If someone is stopped along the side in offseason, a customary check-up is rule of the road… and good karma in the bank in case you need it. Being offseason, we pretty much had our pick of pull-offs and free camp sites. We probably paid for camping only one or two nights a week on average, mostly to experience the bliss of a hot shower. Our rig, Noodles, is a 2020 Sprinter 2500 170wb, 2WD, stock suspension and clearance. The Rockymounts Rack adds length and affects clearance, but we prefer the ease of access this rack gives our van and bikes. At least for this trip, the bikes were 100% worth it and we would definitely bring them again on this route. Hopefully, our account helps other people on the fence about an off-season trip enjoy the magic of Alaska, Northern BC, and the Yukon… with virtually no tourists, incredible fall colors, and a great vibes. If that’s your jam, read on.
We began our journey through BC through the border crossing at Sumas, Washington. After a frosty exchange with the border guard (dethawed slightly by the pets, who are always disarming at crossings), we headed into Abbotsford and then picked up the Trans-Canada Highway. Funnily enough, the first place that we’d say is one where we did not plan enough time was just right there, at the mouth of the Fraser River, which originates in the wilds of the rockies near Jasper, and spills out of a huge canyon with soaring walls and super fun looking whitewater. Numerous outfits here offer guided fishing, rafting, multi-day canoeing, and more, plus the community calendar is packed with cool stuff so it’s easy to choose your activity for any vibe. For those seeking more, the deep reaches of the Fraser certainly offer incredible options, and mire curated experiences can be found in all veins of adventure by scouring community boards in local establishments. Wanting to save our off days for more remote areas, we resisted the urge to throw the packrafts in and headed north. We stayed for the night at Alexandra Bridge Provincial Park, which was convenient, but noisy. The price was right, though, and there is some great interpretive information on local tribes and history. In more recent history, it was the site of the original wagon road across the river, but given the areas natural position as a river crossing, it has been used by Indigenous groups and First Nations since the peopling of the region.
Onward the next day, through Boston Bar, Cache Creek, and Quesnel on the way of a long drive, hitting the start of the Stewart-Cassiar Highway at Kitwanga. The Stewart-Cassiar, AKA the Dease Lake Highway, was envisioned in 1959, to connect the logging areas in south British Columbia to the mining region in Cassiar. The mineral mined was asbestos (yikes), and it closed in 1992 when health impacts of the mineral were realized. The original Cassiar Mine remains one of the most polluted mine sites in North America and Cassiar is now a ghost town. Still, the road now serves as a crucial link among small population centers throughout the region and an overlanders delight. After a fuel stop in Kitwanga, we charged on, through the next area I would love to spend more time at: the Hazeltons. Technically, there are three Hazeltons: Old, New, and South, which have their own rich histories and, clearly, identities. Long before the area was bickered over for its rich copper and silver ore, as well as it’s strategic transportation location, the area was home to First Nations communities like the Gitxsan, who revered the location at the confluence of the Bulkley and Skeena Rivers. The Gitxsan people are a rich part of the broader Tsimshian culture of broader Skeena and Northwest B.C. area. The ‘Ksan Museum is a neat spot to spend some time learning about this deep tradition. The peak looming above town, Stegyawden (also called Hagwilget), meaning painted goat in the Tsimshian language, invites climbing and hiking and we will eagerly accept the offer next time we are up there.
We kept up, pulling over at Tintagel for a rest stop along Burns Lake. This stop was even noisier… would not recommend. The next morning we coasted into Smithers, BC, which immediately sucked us in with a farmers market. We devoured a pie baked by Momma J’s and bought ground beef from W Diamond Ranch; both were superb. We headed into Smithers Brewing Company for a pint (or two) and got some work done. They had an awesome Octoberfest Event that seemed to gather much of the town.
Hankering for a shower, we ended up at the Bulkeley Valley Regional Pool and Recreation Center which was a huge score. They had a rock wall, so we got our climbing fix, then soaked in hot tubs, sauna’d, swam, and showered… all for 18 CAD! After this, we went to a spot where locals told us overnight parking was fine for passers-through like us. We grilled the beef we bought at the farmers market and chatted with super friendly local who stopped by to ask us about our trip. We met a relative of the brewery owner, Boyd, who told us to go to Stewart BC/Hyder, AK. This was a good tip, because we had thought about it as a side-quest, but a rainstorm forecasted on the west side was due to bring a steady drizzel to the town and because of that, we had decided we would skip it. At his assurance it would be worth it even in the rain, we went. And boy did he nail it.
The drive into Stewart (the town on the Canadian side) was spectacular, with lush, huge steep valley walls through which waterfalls cut down like white ropes snaking down the imposing faces.
We Made it to Alaska (early)!
We drove through the tiny border into Hyder, Alaska and bopped around the “town.” We went to the reknowned local dive at the Glacier Inn, which was empty except the barkeep. She poured us a “Hyderizer,” the pub gimick, which came out of a bottle in a wrinkled paper bag that turned out to be 151 proof grain alcohol. Warming, but after having lived in Tennessee, we expected it was made locally… nope, just store bought! Oh well. We messed around the border, taking pictures and running about all 100ft of main street Hyder.
We bumped into a couple from College Station, TX, who live in BC now (Gig ’em!). They recommended we do the drive up to Salmon Glacier, which we were waffling on due to the time commitment. But when in Hyder? We moseyed up past the Tongass National Forest’s Fish Creek Wildlife Observation Center and couldn’t resist a stop. When we steppend out, the stench of rotting salmon was inescapable. The spawn here is amazing and though it was mostly over by our visit, we still saw many darting up, desperate to fulfill their evolutionary duty. Thousands of rotting salmon littered the creek in varying states of decay, being fought over by screeching gulls who fought over the carcasses like a grotesque lady-and-the-tramp spaghetti scene.
Sad we missed bears gorging on the buffet, we made the ~45 minute drive (one-way!) up the pot-holed, one lane mining road in an absolute downpour. Even the seasoned USFWS ranger cautioned us against the drive, stating we would “be lucky to see much of anything.” Committed, optimistic, and with time to kill, we pressed on. Fortunately, our timing at the glacier was sublime and the skies split, affording us a brief ~25 minutes of clear conditions to take in the gorgeous view before the clouds whited us out almost entirely. The glacier was stunning and we could here its tortured sounds from nearly a mile above it on the observation points, which created a forboding aura when the clouds swallowed the glacier from view.
We backtracked down, pulling over for the occasional mining car, and tried our luck at the wildlife observation center again. This time, two grizzly bears were wading up the stream, catching fish and munching on the sashimi littering the banks. Only four other people were there, making the experience very intimate and we were easily within 6-8 ft of the bears at times, though safely above them on the deck. We drove back out, gawking once more at the tidal inlets, waterfalls, and glaciers, before hitting the famous Meziadin Junction for fuel. We continued up the road, passing bears, wolves, wolverines, moose and caribou along the entire trip. The scenery was absolutely sublime and the wilderness feeling was unmatched.
Back in Canada
After 40 Mile Flat, at the Stikine River crossing near Stikine River Provincial Park (also a great free camping option to the west of the bridge right after crossing when headed north), we encountered the only unpaved section of the road, which seems to get shorter every year. As of writing, it is less than a kilometer and in very good shape, no problem in our rig. We found an excellent campsite around Upper Gnat Lake, removed from the road, and woke up right along the lake.
On 9/22, Nessie’s Birthday, we had a long driving day. We stopped for a packraft adventure at Sawmill Point Recreation Area, which is also a campground we would recommend highly for future travellers. Awesome scenery, great spots, and easy access.
We continued along passing yet another area we wish we had more time in: Stikine River. Specifically, the Grand Canyon of the Stikine looks incredible and we can’t wait to return, as the potential seems limitless and little data is out there on the area, but I was enamored with the few reports out there on the “Everest of Whitewater.” We charged onward, eventually hitting the famed Alaska Highway in the early afternoon. We headed west, fueling up at Good Hope Lake, which had stunning alpine lakes with spectacular colors. We rolled into Teslin, crossing the temporary bridge in place at Teslin Lake which felt spicier than expected in our rig. For a birthday meal, the Yukon Motel and Restaurant was a solid stop. We had an elk burger, a steak, poutine, carrot cake, and local beers before heading on to a rest area just outside of Teslin Lake Government Campground. The campground sites are certainly nicer, but the pull of with bathrooms just outside the campground is free, a fair trade for the noisier ambiance.
Whitehorse next, which was a nice stop after so many small towns. We arrived early and spent the entire day at Eclipse Nordic Hot Springs, which was phenomenal. Seriously. During weekdays, for 35 CAD, you could spa to your heart’s content and hang in their cafe working on Wifi in between sessions of eucalyptus steam rooms and cold plunges from morning to well into night. If you’re lucky, you can catch the Northern Lights from the comfort of the tubs!
We camped in town, near the intersection of Front and Strickland streets, where free RV parking is allowed right along the Riverwalk (though this may be seasonal). The location is awesome, and it is just a few minutes to downtown. Whitehorse is clearly growing, and with that come the pains of gentrification and marginalization. We were actually accosted by a young Indigenous woman on main street, yelling at us for our role in colonization. It was a stark reality check that centered us a bit more on our trip.
We dined at Bullet Hole Bagels and Baked, a local cafe. We walked the riverwalk downtown, which has lots of interpretive signage right along the Yukon River, including the SS Klondike, of gold rush fame, which was sadly under renovation on our trip but would be well worth a visit.
We were itching for some activity, so found a neat little crag called the Rock Gardens (below) and went to get some pitches in before heading to DesyCan, a fire Indian spot, for dinner. We went to Walmart and Canadian Tire, which is like a Lowes and Academy combined, and picked up supplies before getting down the road a bit to an abandoned gravel mine where we parked for the evening. Honestly, I’m a massive Canadian Tire fan now. If you need something and it isn’t at Canadian Tire… you might not really need it…
The next day, we decided to bypass the beautiful looking Kluane National Park (so many places, so little time!), hoping to hit it on the return, in favor of making a 13 hour driving push to make McCarthy in Wrangell-St.Elias National Park by the evening. We passed an amazing looking cliff near Swede Johnson Peak begging to be climbed. Get after it if you findyourself there!
We arrived to Chitina, AK, around 11pm, following an uneventful border crossing. Read on in Part 2!